Hedi Slimane’s tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, from 2012 to 2016, remains one of the most discussed and debated periods in the history of luxury fashion. His appointment, the subsequent rebranding to simply “Saint Laurent,” and his radical reimagining of the house’s aesthetic sparked intense reactions, ranging from fervent adoration to outright condemnation. This article will delve into the key elements of Slimane’s vision, analyzing his impact, legacy, and the lasting influence of his “Saint Laurent” era. We’ll examine his stylistic playbook, explore iconic looks like SS13 Look 4, and consider the controversies surrounding his departure.
Hedi Slimane Saint Laurent: A New Silhouette Emerges
Slimane’s arrival at Yves Saint Laurent was met with both excitement and apprehension. His previous work at Dior Homme had established him as a master of a distinctly lean, androgynous silhouette, a stark contrast to the established Yves Saint Laurent aesthetic, known for its powerful, often overtly feminine, designs. Slimane’s vision was a radical departure; he didn’t merely update the house; he revolutionized it. He jettisoned the Yves Saint Laurent label, opting for the simpler, more modern "Saint Laurent," signaling a deliberate break from the past. This act alone sparked considerable debate, highlighting the complex relationship between heritage and innovation in luxury fashion.
His collections were instantly recognizable. The signature skinny jeans, fitted jackets, and often-times oversized outerwear became synonymous with the "Slimane Saint Laurent" era. This lean, rock-and-roll infused aesthetic resonated with a younger generation, attracting a new clientele while simultaneously alienating some of the house's long-standing customers accustomed to the more classic, structured silhouettes. The sharp tailoring, often featuring high-waisted trousers and slim-fitting jackets, emphasized a lean, almost gaunt physique, creating a look both rebellious and undeniably stylish.
SS13 Look 4, featuring Edie Campbell, a favored model of Slimane’s, exemplifies this perfectly. The image, often reproduced in articles and books celebrating his work, showcases the quintessential Slimane aesthetic: a slim-fitting black jacket, paired with equally slim-fitting black trousers and a simple, elegant top. The overall effect was one of effortless cool, a distinctly modern take on classic menswear tropes. This look, along with many others from his collections, became highly sought after, instantly establishing itself as a cornerstone of his aesthetic and contributing to the overall success of the brand under his direction. The look transcended mere clothing; it became a statement, a symbol of the Slimane era.
Hedi Slimane YSL Playbook: Music, Youth Culture, and a Distinctly Parisian Vibe
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